Following the quality beach time spent in Lake Malawi, we entered Zambia and made a beeline back into the game park action as we pushed through to South Luangwa National Park. The campsite here was one of the best we’ve encountered yet, set alongside the Luangwa River and a stones-throw from a chorus of belching hippos and the beady eyes of the resident crocodiles. Consequently, we were thoroughly briefed on the no-swimming in the river rule and on how to deal with hippos in the campsite at night as the lush green grass we were pitching our tents on was the preferred component of their dietary intake. Unfortunately, as most of us were keen on the experience, no hippos ventured into the camping ground, though a couple of elephants paid us a visit one afternoon.
In South Luangwa National Park, we undertook two game drives. The first, the normal early morning affair where some lion, crocodiles and the normal array of zebra, elephant, giraffe and all forms of antelope were encountered. The elephant encounter was impressive as a heard of nearly three dozen elephants emerged from the bush and congregated in a dried up river bed. In amongst them, a couple of young bull elephants play fought.
To mix things up, our second game drive was an optional night time affair with the nocturnal activities of the leopard the target. Things got off to an auspicious start though as an hour in, we headed down on to the river bank to take in the sunset. A few hundred metres off the beaten track and near the water’s edge, we spied a couple of lions, at which point we also punctured the front right tyre. Being off road and on a sandy bank, this was not an easy place to change tyre, so the driver opted to let us off his land cruiser to have a drink while he drove back to firmer ground on which to change the tyre, leaving us with the advice that the lions won’t bother you as long as we stay together.
And thus night fell as seven of us nervously sipped raro and tried to maintain eye contact with the two dozing lions, oblivious to four elephants which were headed our way from the other end of the river bank. Danger was averted when the safari jeep returned to pick us up, though to be honest there was absolutely no interest in us by either the lions or the elephants.
To mix things up, our second game drive was an optional night time affair with the nocturnal activities of the leopard the target. Things got off to an auspicious start though as an hour in, we headed down on to the river bank to take in the sunset. A few hundred metres off the beaten track and near the water’s edge, we spied a couple of lions, at which point we also punctured the front right tyre. Being off road and on a sandy bank, this was not an easy place to change tyre, so the driver opted to let us off his land cruiser to have a drink while he drove back to firmer ground on which to change the tyre, leaving us with the advice that the lions won’t bother you as long as we stay together.
And thus night fell as seven of us nervously sipped raro and tried to maintain eye contact with the two dozing lions, oblivious to four elephants which were headed our way from the other end of the river bank. Danger was averted when the safari jeep returned to pick us up, though to be honest there was absolutely no interest in us by either the lions or the elephants.
Following South Luangwa, we headed southwest to Lake Kariba, the largest man-made lake in Africa. Tents were not required for this part of the trip as we holed up in a house boat for the three nights on the lake. Again, a strict no swimming rule was enforced on account of the large crocodile population which made for a good crocodile farming business which Mat visited. The business is based on a resident population of 2,000 crocodiles taken from the wild on account of their naughty nature – if a crocodile is reported as aggressive or endangering people in any way, the local farm is allowed to capture it and relocate it to the farm. These 2,000 breeding stock produce a farmed stock of 100,000 crocs which are raised until 3 years old, at which point they’re harvested for their skin and meat.
The tour of the farm started out sedately enough, but soon things got exciting when a couple dozen heads of recently killed three year old crocodiles were thrown in the back of the truck for feeding out to the breeding population. We pulled up by the side of a natural holding pond, tossed one head to the edge and immediately a dozen or so very large 5m plus crocs who, no more than 20 metres from us, devoured the heads of their offspring (a good recipe for Mad-Croc disease). The sound of their jaws snapping and crushing the skull bones was intense, as was the nervous pause when the crocs stared at us once all the food was gone.
The tour of the farm started out sedately enough, but soon things got exciting when a couple dozen heads of recently killed three year old crocodiles were thrown in the back of the truck for feeding out to the breeding population. We pulled up by the side of a natural holding pond, tossed one head to the edge and immediately a dozen or so very large 5m plus crocs who, no more than 20 metres from us, devoured the heads of their offspring (a good recipe for Mad-Croc disease). The sound of their jaws snapping and crushing the skull bones was intense, as was the nervous pause when the crocs stared at us once all the food was gone.
Our time on Lake Kariba was relatively sedate where the odd spot of game viewing was interspersed with opportunities to fish. A couple of catfish were landed, while a large and prized Tigerfish broke off our guide’s line metres from being landed. In amongst this, cards, board game and reading were the order of the day.
Earlier in the trip we’d visited the local flea-market in Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, and invested heavily in some attire for a Bad Taste party which we held onboard the houseboat. Everyone was suitably attired, with all males sporting a moustache at a varying stage of development, and all hands went to the pump in an effort to drink the vessel dry. By early morning, all beer supplies had been consumed and all other refreshments were in short supply. The state of each and everyone the next morning was a testament to the vigour with which we attacked our task, though there were plenty of nervous smiles when we found all the Eski’s had been re-stocked before any of us rose for breakfast. The mighty houseboat could not be tamed.
Our final destination in Zambia was Livingstone, the town named after the famously lost Dr Livingstone who is Julie Maslin’s Great Great Great Great Grandfather. Livingstone is a stone’s throw from Victoria Falls, one of the natural wonders of the world and like the neighbouring town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, is an action adventure centre. Following briefing on the full range of activities available to us, ranging from bungy jumping and micro-lighting through to horse-back safaris and helicopter flights, 13 of us signed on to raft the mighty Zambezi, arguably the best white water river in the world.
Our time in Livingstone coincided with low flow, meaning the full 25 rapid section was available to us, as opposed to the 13 rapid section which is rafted at most other times of the year. It’s important to note that low flow on the Zambezi is also when the rapids are at their best as Zambezi low flow is still a reasonably large flow by any standard. So from the base of the Victoria Falls, we set out on a day long adventure of a lifetime in two rafts amongst the 13 of us.
Our time in Livingstone coincided with low flow, meaning the full 25 rapid section was available to us, as opposed to the 13 rapid section which is rafted at most other times of the year. It’s important to note that low flow on the Zambezi is also when the rapids are at their best as Zambezi low flow is still a reasonably large flow by any standard. So from the base of the Victoria Falls, we set out on a day long adventure of a lifetime in two rafts amongst the 13 of us.
The first few rapids, mainly grade 2-4, got us in a good rhythm with only a couple of casualties coming off the raft. We also survived the first of the Grade 5 rapids in good shape, but then came rapid number 8, the ‘Midnight Diner’. The guide asked if we wanted to go left side (10% chance of flipping), the middle (50% chance of flipping) or right side (99% chance of flipping). We instructed ‘right side, strong side’ and the guide obliged, with the raft flipping very early in the section and all of us getting more than a mouthful of Zambezi Gold (river water laden with who knows what). The long dip though was a good cool down before the walk around rapid number 9, ‘Commercial Suicide’. The name says it all, and no-one rafts this monster of a rapid for fear of death.
On the next series of rapids, there were further casualties, including rapid number 10 when the boat emerged minus all four paddlers on the right hand side of the raft. But one of the bigger rapids, number 18, provided the day’s greatest action. Named ‘Oblivion’, the rapid traps rafts in an early section and you’re left to ride it out until the raft flips. We lasted all of about 15 seconds and it took a kilometre or so of river before we were all collected together gain and back in the raft. The first raft in managed a season record of 1 minute and 6 seconds, all captured in high def which shows clearly as each of the rafters is ejected in sequence with the fear of God in their eyes.
On the next series of rapids, there were further casualties, including rapid number 10 when the boat emerged minus all four paddlers on the right hand side of the raft. But one of the bigger rapids, number 18, provided the day’s greatest action. Named ‘Oblivion’, the rapid traps rafts in an early section and you’re left to ride it out until the raft flips. We lasted all of about 15 seconds and it took a kilometre or so of river before we were all collected together gain and back in the raft. The first raft in managed a season record of 1 minute and 6 seconds, all captured in high def which shows clearly as each of the rafters is ejected in sequence with the fear of God in their eyes.
Our final excursion in Zambia was a special one which required us all to extend our stay in Zambia by a day. The Devil’s Pool is a small swimming hole right on the lip of the Victoria Falls. Access is managed by the Royal Livingstone Hotel, so our visit to the pool featured a short jet boat ride on the Zambezi River before a short swim, navigating some rapids to arrive at the pool. From there, it was a jump in for a series of photos sitting on the lip of the falls, an opportunity to dangle our heads over the edge, followed by a swanky breakfast on Livingstone Island of Eggs Benedict with bacon. A great activity and we were all glad to have made the necessary arrangements to stay the extra day.
The jump was easy - the chin origami to form three chins was where the dificulty points came from.
From Zambia, we proceeded closer to the bottom of the alphabetical list of countries by making a brief, 2 day appearance in Zimbabwe. All the thrill seeking activities on offer on the Zambian side were on offer on the Zimbabwean side, but we opted for a more sedate couple of days, starting with an evening game cruise on the Zambezi. To spice things up a little, there was a full open bar operating, so 21 thirsty travellers got to work on turning the ship dry. Geoff led the charge displaying the type of form seen in Manchester on his stag do. Apparently the sunset was nice and apparently we saw some hippos and crocodiles, but the photographic evidence suggests little attention was being paid to the wildlife.
Geoff makes clear his views on recycling.
Back at the camping ground, the festivities continued and it was here that we lost a close and personal friend to drowning. Anyone who knows Mat knows that after Caroline, Muffy the iPhone was a constant companion and source of fun. Unfortunately though, Muffy took a midnight swim in the camp ground swimming pool and despite only being submerged momentarily, she never regained consciousness and was pronounced dead at 0242. For those that knew Muffy well, her body is being transported back to New Zealand and a small service will be held in the new year.
On our second day in Zimbabwe, we toured the markets, picking up a few souvenirs including the infamous but totally worthless one trillion Zimbabwe dollar note which was in circulation during the hyperinflation of 2008 (this bank note has 14 zeros in it!). Having chatted with the locals, the buying power of one trillion dollars before the switch to US currency is best understood by the price of a can of coke at the time, 25 billion.
Having met the locals and brought some curios, we headed with Geoff & Julie to the Victoria Falls National Park and walked the Zimbabwean lip of the falls. Being low flow on the Zambezi, this meant some parts of the falls had no water flowing over them, but it also meant we didn’t get as wet as we would have during full flow.
Having met the locals and brought some curios, we headed with Geoff & Julie to the Victoria Falls National Park and walked the Zimbabwean lip of the falls. Being low flow on the Zambezi, this meant some parts of the falls had no water flowing over them, but it also meant we didn’t get as wet as we would have during full flow.
The guy on the rim of the falls is standing where we swam the day before.
Our exit of Zimbabwe for us summed up the current situation there. While introduction of the US dollar has curbed the hyperinflation, there is a massive lack of the currency in circulation, a problem exacerbated by the low numbers of tourists visiting following the recent troubles. So while life slowly returns to normal, there is a lot of attention given to the few Mizungas that do visit as we’re the best source of the cash needed to climb out of poverty. So a routine police checkpoint on the road towards Botswana resulted in us being detained because of an apparently un-washed reflector stripe on the front right of the truck (apparently road safety is a core priority of the Mugabe Government). Thus, a relatively small US$20 bribe was offered and soon we were on our way, the cop in processions of some hard currency to navigate the week ahead and our collective pockets only marginally lighter.
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